Goa Itinerary: Panjim, Old Goa, Mapusa & North Coast

Last Updated on September 27, 2026 by Sleepless

Updated September 2026: Scroll to the end for 2026 prices and practical tips for Old Goa, Mapusa Market, Copperleaf, Caravela and the Grand Hyatt.

Goa October travel can work well for a short break, but seasonal openings and weather affect what is available. This three-day route groups Panjim and Old Goa, Mapusa and the North Coast to reduce backtracking.

So recently some of my business colleagues from Africa were down in India for some medical tests and treatment in New Delhi and after they finished that they were down in Goa for some rest in recuperation so I joined them in Goa for 3 days to show them around .

I landed there Goa in the 4th week of October but this year due to delay in shack allocations the season has started late. Many places which are prime attraction like the Beach Shacks , John’s Boat Tours, Saturday night market etc had not yet started. I reached my hotel in north goa in the evening and as my colleagues were staying nearby, i thought the first place I must take them is Britto’s in Baga since it is an iconic place and captures the essence of Goa in many ways. Now, this is a place that in recent times serves very indifferent food in a nice location and the service is middling at best. IMHO, they are now resting on their past laurels. I would certainly not recommend this place to anybody.

Britto’s

The next day was a Sunday and I wanted them to see some of the famous churches of Goa.

Panjim Church and Old Goa

The first place on out stop was the Panjim church or more accurately Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, Goa.

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, Goa

This is probably the most famous church in Goa and has appeared in countless Indian movies and is the poster church of Goa….so to speak.

Built in 1541, this Portuguese-era church was originally a simple chapel meant to serve sailors who would give thanks here after their long voyage from Lisbon. Over the centuries, it evolved into the stunning baroque structure that dominates the cityscape today, complete with its distinctive zigzagging stairway that sweeps up the hillside in graceful tiers.

The church’s most striking feature is its twin towers flanking a ornate central bell, while its interior houses a beautiful altar and statues brought from Portugal. Its annual feast on December 8th draws thousands of devotees, blending Catholic tradition with Goan culture in a vibrant celebration. Perched on a hill in the heart of Panaji, the church offers panoramic views of the city below and remains both a vital place of worship and one of Goa’s most photographed monuments—a testament to the region’s rich colonial heritage and enduring spiritual life.

Since it was almost lunch time I decided to refuel our tummies and that same day a Goan friend of mine had recommended this excellent Asian restaurant in Panjim called Tataki. The place was not far from the Panjim church and we were there in 10 minutes.

Tataki Immersive Asian Dining

The place was very beautifully done in typical Japanese style and the quality of food was outstanding. The Sushis were as good as I have tasted anywhere in India and the rest of the food was par excellence.Our next stop was the Basilica of Bom Jesus and is one of the most famous monuments in Goa. It holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier who was a Catholic missionary who was a co-founder of the Society of Jesus. ( I studied in a school run by Society of Jesus 🙂 )

The Basilica of Bom Jesus stands as Goa’s most revered monument, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has drawn pilgrims and admirers for over four centuries. Located in Old Goa, this magnificent 16th-century church holds a treasure that makes it unique among India’s Christian landmarks—the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier, the legendary Jesuit missionary who brought Christianity to Asia. His body, preserved in a silver casket, rests within an ornate marble mausoleum, attracting devotees from across the globe.

Built between 1594 and 1605, the basilica exemplifies baroque architecture at its finest, its weathered laterite exterior—intentionally left unplastered—contrasting beautifully with the gilded altars and intricate woodwork inside. The church’s name, “Bom Jesus,” means “Good Jesus” in Portuguese, reflecting the deep faith of Goa’s colonial rulers. Every decade, the sacred relics are exposed for public veneration, drawing massive crowds in a tradition that dates back centuries. More than just an architectural marvel, the Basilica of Bom Jesus represents the enduring spiritual and cultural legacy of Portuguese Goa, standing as a powerful symbol of faith, history, and artistic achievement.

Basilica of Bom Jesus

Inside the church the church there was a very nice optional Light and Sound show on the life of St. Francis Xavier and I thought it was magnificent . Just across the road from Basilica of Bom Jesus lies the Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina or Se Cathdral as it’s simply known.

Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina
Even towards the end of October it was quite hot in the afternoon and so we headed to our hotel for an afternoon Siesta.

My guests wanted to do some typically Indian shopping and after some research I decided the best place for that would be the Mapusa Market. This is the place where all the locals shop and it is a huge market and you can get anything you want here at the best prices in Goa.

Mapusa Market .

Since shopping does not interest me much, I was sitting at the Mapusa circle while my companions were busy shopping away to glory.

Mapusa Market

By the time we were finished at Mapusa Market it was dinnertime and the restaurant I had chosen for dinner was The Fisherman’s Wharf. In one of my previous posts I had talked about this restaurant’s branch in Panjim, and now they have opened a branch in Calangute too which is the one we went to since it was closest to our hotel.

The Fisherman’s wharf , Calangute .

This place is known for its seafood and my guests really enjoyed the red snapper which was among the fresh catch of the day . Since I am a vegetarian I had to make do with some rice and cottage cheese preparations which was very good too.

As I was having dinner there, I realized that we were not very far from the Mae de Deus Church in Saligao which I have written about before and one of my friends had told me that is looks very pretty in the night so after dinner we went to visit it and it really did look very serene, beautiful and almost otherwordly….

Mae de Deus Church, Saligaon.

Next morning our driver had recommended the boat tour from Sinquerim jetty and we embarked on that. the best thing about this tour was that there was a fixed rate of Rs. 300 per person and the boat was spacious and comfortable with life jackets for everybody. They show you about 4 or 5 points of tourist interests and the duration of the ride is around 40 minutes. You also get to see dolphins if you are lucky and we were..

the ride was quite pleasant with cool winds and they actually take you out into the open seas so its not like a typical boat ride in the canals and the swells are substantial though never threatening.

Boat Ride and Lunch at Copperleaf

For lunch I had selected a place called Copperleaf in Porvorim which was some 30-35 minutes away by car but I had read very good things about the place and their Fish Thali and King fish Thali.

Copperleaf, Porvorim

The food was excellent and so was the Kingfish Thali . This place is more popular for lunch than for dinner and some of their thalis are available only for lunch. I do wish however that they offered a vegetarian thali for people like me.

After a brief siesta we were off to

Caravela Cafe & Bistro

Panjim where I had planned on taking my guests to one of the sunset cruises on the Mandovi river. However, as we set off it started raining heavily and by the time we reached Panjim there was no possibility of any cruise. So I did a quick search for a nice cafe near the cruise jetty and discovered what must surely be the best cafe in Goa , Caravela Cafe & Bistro . The place was very cosy inviting and once inside the selection of coffee was huge, the owner lady was very welcoming and friendly and she told us she was originally from Kenya and still has extensive links with the place. Maybe that is the reason why there was a wide variety of African gourmet coffee on the menu. The food menu looked inviting too but since we had to go for dinner shortly, we didn’t try the food there.

Caravela Cafe & Bistro, Panjim , Goa.

Since I had an early morning flight the next day back home, we headed out for dinner .

Dinner at Grand Hyatt Goa

I had read a lot about Chulha Restaurant in the Grand Hyatt , Bambolim Goa which was not very far from Panjim. The grand hyatt is a beautiful property and the grounds are very extensive and beautifully landscaped. However, as it was still raining, we could not explore the property much.

Grand Hyatt, Goa

When we reached the property I came to know that the Chulha Restaurant was closed for renovation but the same menu was also available for the time being in one of their other restaurants, The Dining Room. To be honest, we found the food – both from the Chulha menu and from the Dining room menu -a bit underwhelming. It was good but not great and the same goes for the service. Maybe we just were unlucky because I have had food there previously and it was much better so I would still recommend you go there once.

That brought me to the end of another great trip to Goa. Having been to goa 5 times in last 6 years, I have realized several things about goa…

  • it’s very difficult to have a really bad meal in goa…
  • the best plan for a vacation in goa is not to have a plan at all…go there and things will fall in place..
  • north goa is really a very happening place…
  • you will not find a better concentrations of restaurants per square mile anywhere in India than you will find in north goa…

Here are some of the pictures from this trip to Goa… do let me know if you liked any of them…

Five places to eat near Old Goa

Old Goa meal with fish curry rice, prawn balchao, poi bread and bebinca
Old Goa has a short list of convenient local restaurants for a meal after the churches. Budgets below are for two people, excluding alcohol, and menus and service charges can change.

  1. Adlem Goi Bar & Restaurant — a dependable choice for Goan seafood and thalis in Old Goa. Budget ₹600 for two; its regular fish thali is listed at ₹200 per plate. Good for an unfussy lunch after the Basilica.
  2. The Rasoda — a vegetarian restaurant and mithai stop near Old Goa, with North Indian and Rajasthani comfort food. Budget around ₹1,050 for two; useful when the group needs a fully vegetarian meal.
  3. Annapurna Multicuisine Family Restaurant & Bar — a broad menu close to the monuments, useful for mixed groups wanting Goan, Indian and Chinese dishes. Budget around ₹1,000 for two.
  4. Ratnasagar Family Restaurant & Bar — near Basilica Junction, with a practical multicuisine menu for families and tour groups. Budget around ₹750 for two; a straightforward option when you want to eat close to the churches.
  5. Greenyard Restaurant — by the Divar ferry road, a good choice to combine with a short ferry ride after Old Goa. Budget around ₹1,050 for two; allow time for the ferry and confirm the kitchen hours before setting out.

Seven best markets to visit in Goa

Colourful Goa market stalls with textiles, spices and produce
For markets, the day and time matter as much as the location. These are the usual hours; seasonal markets can close during the monsoon or change their timetable, so check on the day before travelling.

  1. Saturday Night Market, Arpora — Saturdays, 6:00 pm–2:00 am, generally November to April. Go for live music, food stalls, clothing, jewellery and crafts.
  2. Anjuna Flea Market — Wednesdays, 9:00 am–6:00 pm, generally during the main season. This is the classic daytime market for beachwear, jewellery, handicrafts and snacks.
  3. Mapusa Friday Market — Fridays, 8:00 am–6:00 pm. Arrive in the morning for the fullest range of produce, spices, plants, textiles and everyday Goan shopping.
  4. Panjim Municipal Market — daily, 8:00 am–8:00 pm. A useful central stop for cashews, spices, fish, fruit, flowers and local groceries.
  5. Margao Municipal Market — daily, 7:00 am–7:00 pm. One of South Goa’s strongest local markets for produce, seafood, textiles and household goods.
  6. Calangute Market Square — daily, 10:00 am–10:00 pm. Best for an easy evening browse of souvenirs, beachwear, bags and inexpensive gifts near the beach belt.
  7. Arambol Market — daily, 9:00 am–8:00 pm. A relaxed North Goa option for clothing, jewellery, crafts and small cafés, with more activity later in the day.

Plan more of Goa

This itinerary covers a large area, so group Panjim and Old Goa together, and keep a separate day for the North Coast to avoid turning the trip into a series of long drives. For a practical first-time overview of North versus South Goa, where to stay, how to get around, a realistic itinerary and more food ideas, see my Goa Travel Guide.


Prices and Practical Info – September 2026

Here are approximate prices as of September 2026 for the places in this itinerary.

  • Old Goa churches (Basilica of Bom Jesus, Se Cathedral): Free, and open daily from about 9 am to 6:30 pm, with shorter hours on Sundays for Mass. Dress modestly with your shoulders and knees covered. The Archaeological Museum in Old Goa has a small ASI fee.
  • Mapusa Market: The big day is Friday. Spices and cashews cost about ₹600–1,200 per kg, and Goan chouriço sausages and local sweets are cheap and delicious. Bargain politely.
  • Boat ride and lunch at Copperleaf (Porvorim): Goan and Indian food at about ₹1,200–2,000 for two. Mandovi river cruises cost about ₹500–800 per person.
  • Caravela Café and Bistro: About ₹1,000–1,800 for two.
  • Dinner at Grand Hyatt Goa: About ₹2,500–4,000 per person, with rooms at about ₹10,000–20,000 a night.
  • Getting there: Goa has two airports. Mopa (Manohar International, GOX) in the north is best for North Goa, and a taxi to Calangute, Anjuna or Vagator costs about ₹800–1,200. From Dabolim (GOI) in the south, North Goa is about ₹1,200–1,800 by taxi. Trains go to Madgaon, Karmali or Thivim.
  • Getting around: Book taxis on the GoaMiles app for fair, metered-style fares. Scooters rent for about ₹300–500 a day; carry your licence and wear a helmet.
  • Best time: Late November to mid-February is peak season, with pleasant weather and peak prices. The monsoon (June to September) is lush, quiet and cheap (my favourite!), but the sea is off-limits for swimming and some beach shacks close.

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